Before leaving Rocky Harbour we stopped at a gift shop that was closed when we went by last night. It was touted as the best in the area so we could not miss it. I was struck with an overwhelming sense of melancholy as I walked around the shop. It was all I could do to not sob out loud. My crying often comes at the most inconvenient times!
But I got it under control as I listened to the shop owner play the ‘spoons’. I asked him if he would allow me to video him playing if I bought some spoons. He was very obliging and played a whole song with musical accompaniment before moving on to also play the ‘ugly stick’. It was very cool! I wish I could figure out how to post the videos on here because they are such fun.
It was a rainy cool day as we began our trip north. As usual the clouds and sky were amazing. We stopped by a natural formation call the Arches which was cool to see but I must say that the restrooms were probably the worst we have encountered.
This formation is called Arches. I imagine in a few years the water will have totally eroded it. But for now we enjoy it.
We love the rocks! They are re so unique and so different from any we have seen before this trip,
Our next stop was at a small restaurant/gift shop called “Dark Tickle’. The shop keeper explained that a ‘tickle’ was a very small stream of water and that a dark tickle was one shaded by the grass, etc.
Next was L’Anse aux Meadows, a Viking settlement from the days of Erik the Red from Iceland. My heel was bothering me so Sue walked out to the displays while I stayed in the visitors center and read the displays. The Vikings found this area by the fish-rich ocean shelf, known as the Grand Banks. They built a settlement where they could preserve their bounty and spend their winters before returning home. Eventually they abandoned the idea. It was interesting to learn about. This is a long house which was made up of 3 rooms and constructed of wood and sod. A small village has been found and much has been learned of these people who lived over 1000 years ago.
Our time was short so we pressed on to our main destination which was a wharf where we would join the others to ride on a boat to the north tip of Quirpon Island. It was raining, freezing cold and generally miserable. I kept looking for the boat that would take us, not realizing that it was already there. It was a small Zodiac vessel which was why we could each only have one small piece of luggage not to exceed 20 pounds.
Our group of 11 people was each given rain ponchos and life vests before we all climbed down into the boat. With some trepidation I allowed myself to be helped into the boat and tried to find a place to sit. I did not want to sit on the edge even though there were hand holds so I sat on the box just in front of the captain. And did I mention that it was still raining?
That 20 minute trip was one of the most miserable experiences of my life! The rain poured, the wind blew and the swells swelled. Every time we hit a swell we were slammed against the seats. I finally stood up and just held on to the frame but even then one of the swells literally lifted both of my feet into the air. All I could do was hold on and wait for the misery to end. And I kept thinking “I can do hard things!” After an exceedingly rough patch of ocean as we rounded the tip of the island, we safely arrived in a little cove. Then we had to climb out of the Zodiac, climb up a gang plank only to learn that we had to walk up rocky terrain to reach our lodgings. And it was still raining.
Ed put all of the luggage in a little ATV truck. He offered a ride for anyone that needed it. He had 2 seats. Sue immediately spoke up that I needed it since she was worried about my heel.
So, we were driven up the lane to the first house and left to settle in. We were surprised to find the common area occupied with a few people and to learn that there were 6 rooms in the house. Although our house mates were nice it was just weird for me to be with so many strangers. Our room was upstairs and we did have our own bathroom just down the hall. Dinner was at 6 PM so we changed out of our soaking wet clothes [since the rain ponchos were not really helpful] and prepared to walk up to the dining room in the other house. There were 2 shifts for meals because the dining table only held about 12 people. Our cod dinner was pretty good and then it was time for the next group and we walked back to our hose. The rain had stopped but it was so foggy we could not see much.
We had come to Quirpon because we had thought we would see icebergs and whales in that unique setting. It sounded kind of romantic to stay in an actual light keepers house.
Several small bags being stowed in a plastic sack to protect them from the rain.
The landscape was so amazing. No trees but so much beautiful low growth amidst the rocks.
Getting boarded while helping with someone’s bag. See the ‘hand hold’ on the side of the boat?
What a difference the sun makes! We woke to clear sunny skies and the world looked like a whole new place. Although the Zodiac whale watching tour was available we chose to stay on land and just absorb this new kind of beauty. The landscape is so different from what we have seen before. Everything is low and there are no trees. But there is so much growing. So many berries and flowers and ground cover. We have learned names of berries previously unknown to us, like bakeapple also known as cloud berry, partridge berry, crackle berry, etc. We tasted lovely jams with our breakfast and had a cheese cake made with bakeapple berries. We were also served a “Jiggs Dinner” which is a typical Newfoundland dish consisting of salted beef, carrots, cabbage, rutabaga, potatoes, dumplings with molasses, and pease pudding all cooked together in a large pot.
Our photos were much nicer with the sunshine! The lighthouse was much brighter with its white and red trim. We walked down to the whale watching area but were out of luck. Later we saw them from our porch and even got some videos. Overall it was just nice being there in that stark beauty. There is a family of 6 foxes living in the rocks near the house. They are not tame but are not afraid of us. Sue got a video of a fox as it came right close to me to check me out.
Despite some of our challenges we found that we missed the peace and beauty of Quirpon once we had left it.
Sue called my name and I looked up. I guess I am smiling because I am so relieved that we made it safely to the island.
Just us in front of the lighthouse.
Main house with dining room and ATV ready to bring luggage down to the cove.
We stopped by St. Anthony’s [ the locals call it “S’Nantoneys” which is a mouthful] and visited the Grenfell museum. Wilfred Grenfell was a young English gentleman when he first sailed to Labrador. He immediately saw the need for medical assistance in that community. After returning to England and finishing his education he returned as a doctor and spent his whole life trying to improve the life of the people there. The legacy left by him and his wife is remarkable and it was nice to have learned about him.
Our journey continues with a long drive to Deer Lake.
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